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Azerbaijan's wine industry: Rich legacy and bright future ahead

11 September 2024 [16:43] - TODAY.AZ

Few realize just how entwined wine and history are in Azerbaijan. Exploring its vineyards—from the lush foothills of the Caucasus to the shores of the Caspian Sea—reveals a side to this country that many travelers do not expect.

With a winemaking tradition that dates back millennia, Azerbaijan offers a blend of ancient viticulture and modern innovation that is increasingly gaining international recognition.

In recent years, the Azerbaijani wine scene has blossomed. Today, more than 15 wineries operate across the country, supported by a burgeoning wine route. Most vineyards now offer tastings and tours, allowing visitors to explore the rich history of winemaking in Azerbaijan—a history shaped by centuries of settlers, invaders, and changing regimes. This ancient tradition is more than just a cultural artifact; wine tourism is recognized globally as a powerful tool for promoting local winemaking. For Azerbaijan, it is also an engine for expanding vineyards, increasing production, and diversifying export markets.

A Drop of History: Azerbaijan’s Ancient Wine Culture

In recent years, the wine scene has flourished here. Today, Azerbaijan has more than 15 wineries, plus a new ‘wine route’. Most vineyards have tastings and tours and there’s plenty to discover in between, not least a history entangled with centuries of settlers and invaders. Globally, wine tourism is recognized as one of the most effective ways to promote local winemaking. It also provides a strong incentive to expand vineyards, boost production, and diversify the export markets for grapevine products.

While no one knows for sure where winemaking originated, fingers have long pointed to the southern foothills of the Caucasus Mountains, between the Black and Caspian seas. Here, excavations have found wine residue in jars dating back to the Stone Age. Among some of the oldest finds are those discovered at sites along Azerbaijan’s Arpachay River, in the Sharur region of Nakhchivan. Fragments of presses and fermentation vats suggest wine was made here as far back as 6,000 years ago. Before Azerbaijan was the ‘Land of Fire’, it was clearly the country of vino.

Aficionados (Enthusiasts) of the local wine scene argue it still is, though it wasn’t until German settlers arrived in the early 19th century that modern winemaking took shape here. They founded Helenendorf (now Goygol) in what was then Russian-occupied Azerbaijan, planted vineyards, and started the first wine company here in 1860. It still survives today, having outlasted the Soviet expulsion of Germans during World War II.

In the Soviet era, Azerbaijan’s production increased dramatically, though often favoring low-quality sweet wines. The republic was one of the USSR’s top wine producers with brands such as the ‘Aghdam’ port-style fortified wine becoming extremely popular throughout the Soviet Union. Even one of the famous wine regions was Garabagh, especially Aghdam and Fuzuli. Production reached a peak in 1984 when over 2 million tonnes of grapes were harvested in Azerbaijan from some 275,000 hectares of vineyards, thus making winemaking the republic’s most profitable industry. However, Gorbachev’s anti-alcohol campaign, beginning in May 1985, led to the destruction of most of the vineyards so that after Azerbaijan regained its independence in 1991, it took another decade before it was able to start rebuilding its wine industry

Wine’s third wave arrived in the early 2000s. Wide-scale vineyard replanting was undertaken, experts were brought in to cultivate international grapes, and indigenous varieties, such as Madrasa (red) or Bayan Shira (white), are now being made into drier, more modern wines, not the old sweet stuff churned out for Soviet palates. It’s a story and history that slowly unravels as you head inland from the Caspian coast.

The Rise of Wine Tourism in Azerbaijan

Wine tourism, also known as enotourism, oenotourism, or vinitourism is a relatively young sector in Azerbaijan, but its potential is immense. Globally, wine tourism generates billions of euros annually in countries like Italy, France, and Spain, and Azerbaijan is now positioning itself within this lucrative market. Since 2019, the government has been part of the international Iter Vitis network, which connects wine routes across 20 countries. The Azerbaijan Tourism Board (ATB) has been instrumental in developing the Iter Vitis Azerbaijan wine route, which was recognized internationally for its rapid development in 2021 and 2022.

Oenotourism has been further bolstered by the annual Wine and Grape Festival in Shamakhi, a joint effort by the State Tourism Agency and local authorities. Held at the Shirvan Sherablari winery complex in the village of Meysari, the festival is now in its third year, drawing thousands of visitors, including international tourists and representatives from over twenty wineries. The festival not only showcases wines from across the country but also highlights the revival of winemaking in liberated territories such as Tug in the Khojavend District.

Azerbaijan’s winemaking future looks promising, especially in regions like Garabagh, where the soil and climate are particularly favorable. As demining efforts continue and vineyards are re-established, the total vineyard area is expected to exceed 23,000 hectares, with grape production potentially reaching 300,000 tonnes annually. The contemporary "State Program for the development of winemaking in the Republic of Azerbaijan in 2018–2025," initiated by President Ilham Aliyev, outlines ambitious goals to boost grape production by a third and increase wine exports fivefold by 2025. However, challenges such as the COVID-19 pandemic have slowed progress.

As Azerbaijan strengthens its position on the international wine tourism map, the combination of its rich history, cultural heritage, and modern winemaking practices promises to attract more wine enthusiasts from around the world. With continued investment and promotion, Azerbaijan is poised to become a significant player in the global wine industry, offering travelers a unique journey through centuries of viticulture.

Azerbaijan’s wine tourism is not just about tasting fine wines—it’s an immersive journey into the country’s history and culture. As efforts to revitalize winemaking in regions like Garabagh continue, and as initiatives such as the Iter Vitis route gain international traction, Azerbaijan is poised to become a top destination for wine lovers. With an eye on the future and a deep respect for its past, the country is embracing its identity as both an ancient and modern winemaking hub!

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